Stacey Weldon has been on the climbing scene for as long as I can remember. From the gym to the crag, Stacey always seems to enjoy the experience. Not only has she been a leader in the climbing competition scene for a number of years, she also helped organized the Kingston Bouldering Co-op, which is still going strong today. As soon as the Tour De Bloc: Elevation Place was announced, I knew that we would have to check in with Stacey and see how things were going in her new home town. Here is what she had to say.
A little bit of skin care goes a long way.
Hi Stacey, I heard you just got back from Vegas. How was your trip?
Vegas was great! My partner Benn and I were really looking forward to some R & R in the south. After the unpleasant surprise of snow on New Years Day, the weather turned around, and we had a week of biking and bouldering in the sun.This was my first time bouldering in Vegas, and I could not believe how busy it was. Every boulder problem had a crowd of people and a pile of pads. It ended up working out well, as Benn was psyched to mountain bike, and would drop me off at the boulders for the day. I never had an issue finding a safe landing. The mountain biking on the other hand was a little terrifying. I may need to re-think my rest day activities.
Last year around this time I stopped climbing due to elbow pain, and was out for over 6 months. I feel like I’m starting to get strong again, but my finger strength definitely seemed to be lagging. The endless edges in Vegas definitely helped me get some of that crimp strength back. I didn’t have any expectations or goals for Vegas, but I ended up snagging a send of Scare Tactics Right (V9) on my last day.
Taking a digger on Cowboy Trails.
Tour De Bloc: Elevation Place is coming up this weekend. Are you excited about the event being in your hometown of Canmore?
It’s always exciting to have a competition in your home town. Knowing the walls and the route setting can definitely be an advantage, and its always nice to have friends and family there to cheer you on. While I live and work in Canmore, the Calgary Climbing Centre (CCC) is still my home gym, and I drive in at least once a week to train with the CCC adult team under the guidance of Bonar McCallum. After years of training on my own, its so great to train with such a strong, motivated group. Bonar is a very creative coach, and after almost 20 years of climbing, he’s shown me I still have so much to learn.
You have been on the competition climbing scene for a long time and seem to really turn it on during competition. What keeps you motivated?
I think its that ability to “turn it on during comps’ that is so addictive and keeps me coming back year after year. Competitions provide a unique setting where I am able to get into a state of focus that I haven’t experienced in any other facet in my life. It makes me feel like I have super powers. I’ve been shut down multiple years by some serious injuries. I guess I feel like I still have some unfinished business on the competition scene.
Climbing injuries seem a part of the game. What do you do to stay motivated during a time of injury?
I’ve really found that exploring different sports has been an important part of staying sane while injured. Last winter when I realized I might not be climbing for awhile due to my elbow, I got back into skiing. Being outside and staying in shape was huge for me.
Stacey topping out problem #2
In Edmonton, you came out on top. Anything you attribute to your success this year?
The next generation of young crushers is crazy strong. Stronger than me by a long shot. Competition experience and flexibility let me get away with the win in Edmonton.
The Weldons have always been a tour de force in the western climbing scene. What got you all climbing?
My first ‘real’ climbing experience was with my gymnastics team in the basement of the University of Calgary, bouldering on the ghetto wall made of cement, holds made of two by fours with sand paper glued to the edges. I was hooked. My older brother Chris was the first to get into climbing, when the CCC opened 20 years ago, and one by one the other three Weldon kids joined in the fun.
Is it true you mom is a certified World Cup Judge?
You betcha! My parents have both been very involved in the climbing scene. My dad was the head of the CEC for many years, and my mom is an international IFSC route judge. She wrote and revised the rules for CEC competitions, and organized many judging clinics across the country. They have retired from both their positions in the climbing scene, and from their real jobs, and are living the live traveling the world. They continue to climb recreationally.
Trying hard on Scare Tactics Right.
You recently settled back in Canmore after a long stint at school. How does it feel to make Canmore your home base?
University in Kingston was fun, but I definitely missed the mountains. Being able to wake up to them every morning is a dream come true. I’m surrounded by amazing limestone cliffs, great skiing, and a community of wonderful people.
A little off topic, but you set up a coop in Kingston for climbers. Can you tell us a little bit about this project and how it got started?
I moved to Kingston Ontario a few years ago to finish my nursing degree. The local gym at the time wasn’t conducive to training for bouldering comps. I was driving the 2 hours to Ottawa every weekend to train at Coyote Rock Gym. The Squamish Co-op had recently opened, and I started throwing the idea around to some of the local climbers. The community was psyched, and within a few months we were building the Kingston Bouldering Cooperative. It’s still going strong.
Do you have any advice for those who are trying to start a coop in their local areas that might help get things going?
There is a ton of information online about how to start up a cooperative specific to each province. The initial research is important. The first step is determining if there are enough interested people in the community to finance the cooperative long term.
You continue to make outdoor climbing a priority. What are you excited for in the upcoming year?
I’ve had a string of injuries since moving to Canmore. I’m psyched to work on a few projects in the Bow Valley, and hopefully spend some time in Squamish. I might also try and attend some bouldering world cups, but we’ll see how the year goes. Priority number one is staying injury free.
Thanks Stacey! Good luck this weekend. Special thanks to Benn Edwards for the photos. Squamish Magazine hopes this weekend goes well for all those competing. Stay tuned for up to date coverage of this weekend.
Stacey is sponsored by Calgary Climbing Centre, Flashed, Blurr, Five Ten, and Petzl.
