This weekend, the Hive North Shore will play host to a double billed bouldering competition that is a part of both the Climbing Escalade Canada National Series as well as the Canadian Tour De Bloc. The talent for climbing competition in Canada is getting stronger and stronger and this year’s event should be a shaker of a contest.
Coming off three wins this season, Richmond-based climber Kin Wah Lai has propelled himself into the spotlight on top of the podium after two successful seasons competing in British Columbia. This year, Kin has made substantial improvements in his climbing by focusing on his weaknesses while gaining advice from professional climbers as he competed internationally during two stops of the IFSC World Cup. We thought it would be great to catch up with him and see what he had to say.
Always trying hard, Kin Wah Lai. Photo courtesy of Ken Chow ©
First off, thanks for taking the time to chat with us. How are things going?
Thank you Tim, I’m happy to be here. Things are going well, can’t complain.
You are coming off three first place wins (2 SCBC and 1 Tour) to start the competition climbing season this year. What do you attribute to the success?
Yeah, I’m really excited about that, still a little overwhelmed by it all actually. Well, first of all I’m not injured. And being on a different training program seems to be helping too.
How has the new program contributed to your three podium wins this year?
I’ve changed my training program a bit to focus on different specifics of climbing that I’ve had the opportunity to discuss with international friends and other trainers/coaches. I actually reduced my training volume and started to focus more on climbing fluidity, and less on static/mechanical climbing. Going to different climbing camps and training camps have helped me become a better competition climber.
Photo courtesy of Ken Chow ©
This past IFSC world cup season, I had the chance to pick at the minds of all the elite climbers I got to hangout with over the course of my couple world cups in Japan and Chonqing. I also got a little help from the various route setters and coaches like Tonde and Matthieu. All in all, I started to understand where I needed improvement.
Not being injured, of course, has made a world of difference. I’ve actually been coming off a string of injuries over the last few years. Some from climbing, some from training, some from climbing training, and some from being stupid. But I don’t think there’s any specific thing that’s contributed to success, I just think it’s a coming together of everything.
Sounds like injury has played a big part in holding you back!
Last season, I came back from a rock trip in the Magic Wood area with Sachi and Akiyo, rejuvenated and feeling strong. I started the season strong with a close 2nd place at November sessions but I suffered an awkward fall the second competition at the Edge and couldn’t train or workout properly for the rest of the season. This was really bad since I knew something was off but all the basic tests that the ER doctors and my GP did came out normal.
Photo courtesy of Shane Murdoch ©
I eventually got fed up and just requested to get an X-ray beginning of August this year. Turns out the force of the fall inverted the curvature of my spine from c1-c4, which would explain the constant headache, aching shoulders and neck. But a couple days later I crashed my motorcycle and it somehow slammed everything back into place; in exchange for a bloodied up knee. So I’ve been able to slowly get back to training since about September. I’ve been taking a series of photos of my knee which finally lost its scab on Monday.
Photo courtesy of Shane Murdoch ©
Wow! Sounds like a pretty serious Motorcycle injury. What happened?
Just out on a Sunday cruise with a few friends out to Pemberton. I made a bit of a mistake on the way back and slid the bike on the way back.
I want to get back to this concept of being more fluid and training dynamically. Can you tell us a bit about that?
Before, I spent a lot of time doing more traditional mechanical strength training and injured myself; three points in each shoulder, both elbows, and a couple points through my wrists. I had to stop doing any serious climbing for about three years and wasn’t planning on taking competition climbing seriously anymore until I met my footwork coach in Taiwan about four years ago. He is Korean and we call him YumYum. I found that this new style of climbing suits me a lot more. Since then I’ve found a new drive to climbing as a whole.
A footwork coach, in that he only focuses on footwork? What kind of advice did he have for you that other might gain from?
Mostly on footwork and movement. He focuses on a lot of the basics. My footwork and movement is actually still relatively “immature” so to speak. I’m learning to have to climb more naturally rather than mechanical. It goes back to fluidity of movement. I’m really at a loss of words at how to explain it, it’s a feeling.
Photo courtesy of Shane Murdoch ©
Sounds very interesting! Competition climbing seems equally about strength and power as it is about being mentally strong. Does being mentally strong contribute to your success and what do you do to build up you competition confidence?
I try to take everything in stride, don’t let the problem overwhelm you because the worst thing to happen is to lose the battle against yourself.
Photo courtesy of Shane Murdoch ©
From an outsiders perspective, you have found a good balance between outdoor and indoor goals. Can you tell us a bit about your mind frame around climbing as a whole and how you balance everything out?
Yeah I think I’ve found a good balance for where I am right now. Learning to prioritize each task and goal. Because I’m focusing on competition climbing right now, I’m trying to not think about any outside projects or goals, and solely focus on training for plastic.
So when you are training and competing, you completely stop thinking about your outdoor goals?
As much as possible, yes.
Lastly, can you tell us a bit about your experience competing at the World Cup level this year?
It was an eye opening experience to say the least. Everyone is so strong. And what’s even more impressive is that they’re able to perform at such a high level on demand. I didn’t do as well as I was hoping but it was a great experience. I’m hoping to give it another go this coming season.
Photo courtesy of Shane Murdoch ©
Well thanks again for chatting and we hope the best this weekend
Thank you so much for this opportunity to share some of my experiences.
Awesome Kin! Good luck this weekend!
Photo courtesy of Shane Murdoch ©
The 2016 CEC National Series bouldering competition will take place this Saturday, Dec. 3rd, 2016 @ The Hive North Shore. Finals are open to all spectators and doors will open at 7pm with the final round beginning at 7pm. Be sure to come down and cheer on our BC athletes!
