Thanks to the team at the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival, REEL ROCK 12 will be premiering tonight (November 7th, 2017) at the RIO in Vancouver, BC. If you are thinking of getting tickets well it’s too late! The show has sold out but tickets are available for the Nov. 8th and 10th at the Centennial Theatre in North Vancouver.
Below is a trailer and our review of the film.
REEL ROCK 12: Review
Since we first saw the trailer for this years REEL ROCK 12, we have been waiting in anticipation to see the footage of American climber Margo Hayes completing the world’s first (and second) female ascent of 5.15a. For those who have been around long enough, this where it all started with Chris Sharma making the first ascent of the route Biographie (formerly Realization) to the smooth sounds of reggae music wearing the 5.10 Anasazi.
It is only fitting then that REEL ROCK 12 starts with our old hero, Chris Sharma, as he continues his exploration of Mallorca and it’s limitless potential for psicobloc. Woven into a tale of the usual (big moves and even bigger waves!), we see how the lifestyle of Chris Sharma has recently been influenced by the arrival of his daughter and life in the Barcelona. If beautiful shots of deep water soloing in Mallorca and that classic Sharma scream get you going, then the night has arrived!
Next up and 16 long years later, we are reintroduced to the route Biographie through the eyes of Margo Hayes, a strong and determined young climber who solidifies her place as a prominent figure in climbing history. Diving into the personality of Margo Hayes, it now seems obvious that she belongs right at the top not because of luck or opportunity, but because of hard work. The footage of these events and the story behind her accomplishments are worth the price of admission and a must watch for those who are looking for that motivation to try harder.
The third film of the night (and perhaps most exciting!) introduces us to a new unsung hero, Brad Gobright, who takes to the spotlight in the shadows of Alex Honnold as we are guided through a variety of sketchy events leading up to his soloing of Hairstyles and Attitudes (5.12c) in Eldorado Canyon.
Finally, the night ends with Maureen Beck, who was born without a hand. With all the regular determination and flight of any climbing, Maureen Beck takes us through the journey of being a climber who is disabled and all the assumptions that come from those who don’t understand that really she is just another climber trying to find an easier sequence. The film does a great job of breaking down our assumptions of the ‘disabled climber’ and showing that it is the common thread of determination binds all our experiences. A great film full of character, wit, and perseverance.
Overall, REEL ROCK 12 delivers with almost every story touching at the heart of what climbing is wherever you are. It is these unsung hero’s that make our climbing community so rich in experience and in turn making the films we see inspire us to try harder the next day. If I had to change anything of the night, it would be the order of the films, starting with Brad and ending with Margo, but what I wouldn’t change is not seeing these films on the big screen with everyone else who loves climbing as much as I do.
If you are thinking of getting tickets well it’s too late! The show has sold out but tickets are available for the Nov. 8th and 10th at the Centennial Theatre in North Vancouver.