Nice little feature on Juliane Wurm.
Video featuring a group of Japanese climbers in Bishop. One of the better bouldering video we have seen in a while. Try hard action and some good music!
Trying to steal the magic from MTV’s Cribs, here is a snapshot of Tommy Caldwell’s training facility ad gear shed.
Little clip of Ondra onsighting ‘Master of the Universe (8c+) in Frankenjura.
After visiting BLOCK HELDEN gym in Bamberg for the special Climb-in-Gym tour event, La Sportiva ambassador Adam Ondra onsighted “master of the Universe”another stunning 8c/+ in Frankenjura.
One of the best climbing photographers in the Sea to Sky, Thomas Burden , will be presenting his stuff on Thursday April 20th, 2017 @ Valhalla Pure Outfitters in Squamish, BC. Be sure to check it out this week!
With all the sunshine this weekend, we missed a few notables, including an ascent of Breakin’ The Law (5.14b) at the Black and Tan Wall by Graham McGrenere. We are very excited to announce that this is Graham’s hardest of the grade, shortly after sending his first 5.14a in Mexico this year! More to come I am sure!
On Wednesday, April 19, The Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival will feature Steve Swenson, American aplinist, as he explores the nature of high altitude, alpine climbing, the complexities of remote expeditions, the geo political workings of Kasmir, as well as his passion for the cultural communities in this region of the world. The presentation will be followed by a Q & A where four experts will bring their unique perspectives to the Kashmir Conflict and how it effects climbers and trekkers.
With a number of ascents under his belt, including the second ascent of the North Face of Mount Alberta, in 1981, the first ascent of the Northeast Face of Kwangde Nup and Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat in 1989 and 2004 respectively, and oxygen-free ascents of K2 and Everest and Steve Swenson is no stranger to adventure. Now retired from Engineering but still climbing, Steve has taken the time to reflect back on his experiences in the Karokoram, as well as the changes that have taken place in the region over the past four decades. Squamish Climbing Magazine had the chance to catch up with Steve before his presentation on Wednesday and here is what he had to say.
Enjoyed this clip featuring a party of three and their first proper big wall ascent of The Nose on El Capitan, Yosemite.
Get reading for the trailer featuring this year’s Arc’tery Climbing Academy in Squamish, BC.
The upcoming 12th Arc’teryx Climbing Academy brings climbing enthusiasts together with mountain guides and professional mountain athletes. Hosted in Squamish BC, this event creates the opportunity for dedicated individuals to advance their climbing skills through top flight clinics, speakers series and shared experiences.
Beautiful story-telling by two inspiring characters, Katie Lambert and Ben Ditto.
With the hope of pushing her sport-climbing limits in Slovenia, Katie Lambert spends a winter training – devoting all of her time and energy toward the pursuit of getting stronger. Katie’s journey involves more than just the traveling, and she arrives in Europe with a different set of priorities than she originally thought. Filmed and edited by Benjamin Ditto. Sound design and support by Reed Harvey at Digital One studios in Portland, OR.
The International Federation of Sport Climbing made an official announcement stating that the contract with Flosport has been terminated and live streaming of all competitions will continue to be free!
It was made a mistake and we apologize for that.
The live streaming for IFSC will remain free of charge, the same as it was at the 1st World Cup in Meiringen, Switzerland and in previous years.
The deal – despite having been announced – has not been signed and thus has not been concluded.
Any possible future variation of this policy will be discussed inside the IFSC and subject to the approval of our key stakeholders.
Let’s keep climbing together.
Don’t miss this up and coming VIMFF event on Wednesday, April 19th, 2017 @ Centennial Theatre in North Vancouver.
Adventure stories have been at the heart of VIMFF since it was founded 20 years ago and Steve’s Swenson’s story is no exception. Steve’s story has been almost 40 years in the making with nearly 20 trips to the Karakoram Range. This is a personal story of climbing K2 and other peaks that straddle the borders of China, India, and Pakistan—a story told against the backdrop of extreme altitude and harsh conflict between these nations for control of Kashmir.
Great video featuring Ola Taistra on Mind Control (8c) in Oliana. Really gives you some perspective on the difficulty of this route.
We are very very psyched to announce that Dan Beland has sent Solid Gold (5.14c) at The Cathedral near Saint George, Utah. Dan has been working the rig for two and a half weeks now after sending ‘Golden for a Moment’ (5.14b). The two routes share the same start and finish but rather than heading to a full sit down rest, Solid Gold climbs what Dan describes as ‘Golden on top of another Golden’. Just a few days ago, Dan fell off the last move. Very proud for Dan right now as he continues to grow in his climbing!
After a couple days of athletes taking a stand and an online petition, the IFSC World Cup live stream will now be available for free. Days after, Flosports made an announcement indicating that this weeks IFSC event will be streamed free but indicated that the pay model was here to stay. Well….might as well enjoy it!
Semi-finals @ 2am pacific
Finals @ 930am Pacific on Saturday
We usually don’t report on big stories but we have to report on this one! Jonathan Siegrist is one of our all time favourite climbers at the magazine mostly because of his attitude towards climbing and the respect he gives it. Earlier this year, Jonathan went to Spain and only worked on the route Papichulo thinking he would build fitness on the route itself. At the end of his trip, he went home empty handed and did not send.
Yesterday, after flying back to Spain for the route, he sent Pachamama!! This is exactly the spirit in which we celebrate climbing here at the magazine and we could not be more psyched for J Star!
I'll be unpacking the lessons learned from this process for a long time. Truly, it feels like a chapter in my life ended when I clipped the chains last night. A new level for my climbing and an experience I will never forget. Flooded with gratitude 🙌🏽💜! 'Pachamama'… Onward. @arcteryx @lasportivana @metoliusclimbing @maximropes @climbonproducts #catalunya #mamachichi @honngy photo✨
Another great adventure from Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker.