We are pleased to announce that Danny Guestrin has released a topo for a new route, Nanook (5 pitchs, 5.11d) on the lower left side of the North Walls.
Nanook follows steep cracks and corners on the lower-left side of the North Walls. This well-protected route features wild and varied climbing with exciting positions. It was first climbed as a winter adventure and upon reaching the top it was clear this line needed to be cleaned for its free climbing potential. Take the N.N. Gully trail and start below a partially bolted left-facing offwidth 30 m right of Tall Skinny People (or 50 m right of New Life).
Pitch 1 (5.11d, 30m): Clip a bolt and climb right to gain a partially bolted left-facing offwidth corner to a ledge. Make slabby moves up and left to a thin crack in a shallow corner. At the top of the corner, step right and face climb to a bolted belay on a ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.11b, 35m): Climb the double corners above the belay and move right to gain the major left-facing corner system. Near its top, climb right under a small roof to an overhanging finger and hand crack. Bolted belay at a tree stump on the corner above. Burly and exposed.
Pitch 3 (5.11b, 25m): Continue up the corner through a roof (bolt). Delicate face climbing and stemming past three bolts leads to a steep crack that climbs out of the huge roof that looms above to a bolted belay at a stance.
Pitch 4 (5.8, 20m): Climb the offwidth to its top and move left to a bolted belay at a stance. Those uncomfortable with wide climbing may find a second 6” cam useful.
Pitch 5 (5.10c, 20m): Climb the left leaning gaping crack (fixed piton) to a narrowing finger crack in a clean left facing corner.
Descent: 4 rappels with a single 70m rope. Make two 30m rappels down the wall to the left of Nanook. On the 3rd rappel, rap right to the top of the 1st pitch (watch the ends of the rope).
The topo below also features the new wide crack featured below.
High and Dry – 5.9, 30 m – Single rack to 9”
FA: 10/2014 – Ben Stanley, Dom Ngo
FFA: 03/2015 – Jon Rigg, Ben Stanley
A route for the wide lovers. The offwidth on this climb stays dry even during the rainiest winter days.
Climb the corner system to the right of Nanook and make delicate moves right to gain the ever widening offwidth.
In other development news, Miles Adamson put up a new highball on the Emerging Dream boulder in the Powerlines named ‘The Derek Zoolander Highball for Kids Who Can’t Climb Good’ (v7).
Jack Fieldhouse and Ryan Davy added a new highball called ‘Leftovers’ on the Alpine Boulder located on the Slhanny trail.
Finally, Tom Wright completed his link up on the Prow Wall that was inspired by his team up with Sonnie Trotter last weekend. Tom’s link up connects ‘Written in Stone’ with Sonnie’s ‘Prow Wall’. More information on this route will be released at a later date.