The second IFSC Bouldering World Cup of the season starts today in Vail, Co. Rumour has it that the weather around Colorado has made it difficult for those getting there last minute. With the Toronto and Vail events being so close together, athletes who are competing in both events can reflect quickly on their performance and make the changes necessary for the next round.
Last week, we interviewed Thomasina Pidgeon as she prepared for the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Toronto and we thought it would be interesting to check in with her as she moves from one competition to another. Thomasina left for Colorado on Tuesday and here is what she had to say.
Thomasina (far left) and Team Canada. Photo: Unknown ©
Hi Thomasina, thanks again for chatting with us. How are you feeling about your performance last week in the IFSC Bouldering Toronto World Cup?
Well, I am intrigued and glad about my performance but one can always do better..!! Regardless of the outcome, my goal was to have fun and to relax and I was for sure more relaxed than normal which is good but I can go even further with this. I lost my focus and relaxation a few times and definitely needed to climb with more aggression. It seemed the higher I got on the problem the more my attention went to my thinking which was telling me that my foot was going to slip and that the holds were too far. This is a reoccurring problem for me so I really need to focus on being more present instead of listening to my negative chatter! Also I need to climb less safe, aka, more dynamic… No surprise there.
Can you tell us a bit about the qualifier round? From our perspective it looked hard!
Most of the problems were well set. The first was a face which involved balance and then a huge jump or some unprobable solution that I just couldn’t see. The second was a subtle jump off a fat pinching sloper to a sloping crimp. I tried this too many times and couldn’t get the bonus which is a bummer as the moves after looked like my style. This problem reminded me to slow down and read the problems a bit better as I didn’t see the jump when I read it. Less tries would of given me more power. Live and learn! The third was powerful bigger moves on crimps. I managed to get the bonus but then I quickly got nervous and lost my focus. When reaching for the next hold I told myself that my foot was going to slip and that it was too far. Bad mental skills here!! The forth was technical on volumes with a small jump to a big reach/lock over to a sloper. I made it near the top with the lock off but couldn’t quite reach the sloper, I was climbing too safe. A little dynamic-ness might of helped here but my foot felt so insecure..! The fifth and final problem was a slab with huge volume. I got off the ground but that’s about it. Nobody in my group sent this problem so it was obviously hard! Those Brits..!!
Thomasina at Provincials. Photo courtesy of Shane Murdoch ©
You have just made the journey to Colorado. What is your plan this week?
Hopefully catch up with some old friends who live here, train once at the Spot and try to just stay relaxed and calm for the competition.
Does it help having both North American World Cups in the same week?
I think it does. For myself it keeps the feeling of competition fresh in my head and helps me to be more prepared for what’s to come. It’s also a chance to redeem oneself of the mistakes from the weekends before that are fresh in the head.
How has last weeks performance affected your mental state going into this weeks performance?
It kind of has which is funny because my goal was to have fun, be relaxed and try to let go of the thoughts and beliefs that hold me back. Discovering that this way of being helped makes me even more nervous..! It’s ironic though because the solution to this new expectation, pressure and nervousness, is to simply keep practicing what i have been! Relaxing and letting go. It’s really interesting because i see all of the adversity faced this week from delayed flights to rude comments from strangers as a test to accept, let go and refocus on what’s actually happening. There’s a clinging sensation followed by a real sense of freedom.
Thomasina at WC Munich 2014. Photo by Seb Lazure ©
You have a number of friends that will be supporting you in Vail, CO. Does that make a difference?
Colorado is one of my second homes. I’ve known my friends here for over ten years to the days back in Hueco and such trips. We share a fun past together and it’s really cool to see everyone again and how they have changed and grown. Though they don’t have to be physically here to show their support I think a few will come. It’s really nice to be here with my other community..!
What will you do to boost your confidence over the next week?
~ I’ll try and learn from mistakes last week and also try ‘drill’ into my head the mental ideas that seemed to help last week although drilling isn’t really the right choice of word. Perhaps it is ‘practicing’ it with the small things of each day. I have also been trying to find a way that will summon my internal fire so I will fight a little harder. Not climb so safe… So reminding myself of the frustration felt when I am so close to sending but don’t. Maybe that will help light the fire. That’s a work in progress…
What does your training schedule look like this week and how long will you rest to be ready for the weekend?
I rested two days after Toronto and had a short session of 1.5 hours at the Spot on Tuesday. Other than that I will take it easy and spend the day before the comp in Vail to acclimatize and put my mental energies into summoning curiosity over intimidation. Interesting tactic that helps!
Thomasina at Provincials. Photo courtesy of Shane Murdoch ©
Will you have a chance to climb outside after the competition? Any projects looming in Colorado that you would like to get your hands on?
I’ll have two days so hopefully we can get out there at least once. Already, I am wanting to change my plane ticket to a week later but we’ll see! Apparently, there is still snow at the park so there might not be much point. As for projects, not really. When I was here 3 years ago cedar was a lot younger so with the long hikes here it was a bit challenging to even get out. Often someone helped carry her but once she made it to lower chaos all by herself. It wasn’t the easiest trip so not much effort was spent on any one boulder. It rained a lot and finding partners was a bit challenging as most my friends here work full time. It’s funny though because of the difficulties faced to get out climbing, I went to the gym more which really helped lead me to this path.
How does Cedar handle the travelling and competition days?
Cedar really enjoys travelling and seeing new things and going on road trips. i know part of her also enjoys having a home base so having the consistency of the van really helps us for that. its funny when we were in Squamish for about a month she looked at me and told me she loved being here but wanted to go on a short road trip. As for the comp days i think it is more challenging. The more hands to help hang out with her helps her a ton to keep having fun.
After these two competitions are finished, where do you go from here?
I go back to Squamish and finish up my coaching job and hopefully find another job! So, work combined with climbing outside is what I look forward too. I am not sure yet if I am allowed but if i qualify for the Munich World Cup, i will go to that, followed by climbing outside in Europe. Then back to North American soil for the winter…
Well good luck this weekend! We will be cheering from you from this side of 60!
Thomosina Pidgeon is sponsored by Metolius and La Sportiva Special thanks to Shane Murdoch for the photos.