We are pleased to announce that Miles Adamson and Zach Watson have completed a five year multi-pitch project in Canmore, AB.
The new route, named Don’t Rock the Boatswain (5.13a – 6 pitches – 11c, 13a, 12c, 12b, 12b, 12a), climbs a distinguished wall in the canyon to the left of the Lookout on Grotto Mountain. After a tip from Bonar McCallum, Miles and Zach explored the area to find a lot of potential and chose their plum line based on a top encounter with a big roof to finish off the wall. The big roof, in the end, is still a project, with the six-pitch route ending just before the route. According to Miles, he did try the roof but thought it ended with a v12 boulder problem which was not in the cards this year.
Congratulations guys! That is a lot of work. Squamish Climbing Magazine will have a topo once available!
Zach and I sent! We're naming it "Don't Rock the Boatswain." A boatswain is a platform you can hang to stand on when there is no belay ledge. The entire route we bolted on lead, mostly from free stances. Six pitches: 11c, 13a, 12c, 12b, 12b, 12a. The 25 days or so we put into this route was spread over the course of the last 5 years. The massive roof which im hanging off of we bolted, but are leaving as an open project at 14c at least. If completed it would be the hardest multipitch is canada by far.
Don’t Rock The Boatswain
FA Miles Adamson and Zach Watson
Park at the rats nest cave parking area, Follow the trail for Ratsnest Cave for approximately to a fork on the left that leads to a powerline. Follow the powerline west down to where a trail turns right into the forest. Follow this trail and an old road until you reach the drainage below the canyon. Follow the drainage until you reach the route near the base of a ramp angling up and to the right and find the climb front and center at the back of the canyon.
Pitch 1: 11c 12 bolts
Climb through several slabs and bulge crux trending left to a roof and another crux and run out to the anchor.
Pitch 2: 13a 12 bolts
Climb the massive flake to the first bolt and continue straight up through amazing rock and a shouldery crux to some tricky sequences through a corner and the anchor.
Pitch 3: 12c 19 bolts
Climb up and right then immediately left through some cryptic climbing to a beautiful corner that leads to a difficult slab crux and a hanging belay perfect for boatswains.
Pitch 4: 12b 13 bolts
Traverse up and right from the anchor eventually reaching a corner where you continue right to a layback flake eventually returning bake left to the corner and a bolt where easy climbing leads to a nice ledge and an anchor. Walk along the ledge to the left to move the belay to an anchor further left before climbing the next pitch.
Pitch 5: 12b 9 bolts
Traverse straight left past a giant block and continue straight up through a short boulder problem that leads to a corner and mantle to the next anchor.
Pitch 6: 12a 10 bolts
Climb straight up from the anchor through deceivingly good holds to a small ledge and belay just below the imposing roof.
Pitch 7: 14c? 16 bolts (open project)
Traverse left to a steep prow and continue up to a steep hanging corner staying in the corner to reach a tufa jug then continue up and left through steep and tough climbing.
To rap the route you need two 70m ropes and from the top of the 5th pitch rap all the way to the top of the 3rd