We are very pleased to announce that Jared Nelson sent Revival (5.14b) yesterday in Chek Canyon, Squamish, BC.
With the winds picking up early in the day, Jared made it through the Pulse crux on his first go and reached a high point on Revival only to jitter off after being excited. On his second go, he again made it through the crux of pulse with ease, rested in the alcove and then perfectly executed the Revival crux, arriving at the top of the climb shortly after.
We are pleased to announce that Bonar McCallum has completed his most recent multi-pitch project at Lookout Proper in Echo Canyon. The new three pitch route, aptly named Highway to the Danger Zone (5.12a, 5.12b, and 5.13c), takes the line to the right of Greg Tos’s Where the Wild Things Are.
We are pleased to announce that Tucker Webb, originally from Penticton, sent World of Hurt (v10) last week. Originally put up by Jordan Wright, this problem towers over the forest as one of the highest ‘highballs’ in Squamish. Tucker started working the problem last September and practiced the rig on top rope before gathering enough pads (and courage!) for the send.
With some of the best sport climbing in the country right in Penticton’s backyard, a rash of break-ins at the parking lot of the Skaha Bluffs may have a bigger economic impact than stolen property.
Rolf Rybak, vice president and regional director of the Climber’s Access Society of B.C., is hoping to find a solution to what has become a growing problem, and he is meeting with Mayor Andrew Jakubeit, the RCMP and MLA for Penticton Dan Ashton to come up with a solution.
A little bit of local news to keep you going. Dan Beland recently made an ascent of Revival (5.14b) on the Big Show in Chek Canyon. Dan has steadily making headway on hard sends over the past few years, with ascents of Driven (5.14a), Dinosaur Highway (5.14a) and Mike Doyle’s Adato (5.14b) at Horne Lake last year. Dan also recently made a trip to the rockies where he climbed Fully Jingus (5.13d) and Army Ants (5.13c). Great work Dan!
Excitement is building as The Boulders Climbing Gym in Central Saanich prepares to host the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Speed World Cup (May 17) and the 2015 Climbing Escalade Canada (CEC) National Youth and Open Sport Climbing Championships (May 16-18). The IFSC Speed World Cup will be of particular interest on this weekend, as this marks the first time ever that the IFSC will be holding a Speed World Cup event outside of Europe or Asia. Athletes from a number
of countries, including Canada, the United States, Russia, China, Iran, the Czech Republic , the Ukraine, Poland, Italy and a number of others are expected to compete to see who can be the fastest up the 15-metre Peninsula Co-Op Speed Wall.
Please to announce that Graham McGrenere, originally from Vancouver Island sent The Replicant (5.13d) in Skaha last week. Graham and his girlfriend Kim House have been travelling around this year and it looks like it has paid off. Kim also sent one of her hardest ‘Wings of Steel’ (5.12d) to finish off the trip. Congrats!
Graham McGrenere getting some kneebars on The Replicant. Photo courtesy of Graham McGrenere
Two weeks ago, Sonnie Trotter sent Estado Critico (9a) on a trip to Spain with his family. With a finger injury before the trip, he was unsure of what the trip would look like in terms of climbing. At the end of their trip, Sonnie and his family returned to Cornudella and he sent a climb he had tried 16 years earlier, named L-ments (8b+). We had a chance to chat with Sonnie just after he sent Estado Critico. Here is what he had to say.
Here is a little local news to get you pumped before the rains set in for weekend.
Marc Bourdon has completed his project The Replicant (5.13d) in Skaha, Penticton, BC.
Mike Doyle send his 3rd 5.14a, Chemical Ali, in Smith Rock, OR. Mike has been on a tear after completing Necessary Evil (5.14c), sending two other 14a’s in Smith Rock, The Big R and To Bolt or Not To Be.
Pleased to announce that Sonnie Trotter has sent Estado Critico (9a) in Siurana, Spain. With one week left on his trip, he was able to take down the rig. Congratulations! Word on the street is he one hung it in the morning and then went back for the send this evening. Estado Critico is famous for being the first 9a onsight in the world, completed by Alex Megos. A lot of people were visiting Spain this winter and the pictures look fantastic!
Pleased to announce that local climber Vikki Weldon recently sent Los Humildes pa Casa (8b+) in Oliana, Spain. The project took 7 attempts and Vikki did report that she thought it may be very soft for 8b+. Either way what a fantastic send! Vikki previously climbed Eulogy (5.14a) in Maple Canyon, UT.
Here is an old video of Chris Sharma on the route.
A little bit of a recent news update. Mike Doyle has completed To Bolt or not To Be (5.14a) at Smith Rock after finishing up The Big R (5.14a). Here is a interview Mike did on his training regime with trainingbeta.com. Be sure to check it out.