This video features Nate Woods from the Lower Mainland doing the first ascent at Elbow Lake. According to Marco, this problem is similar to No Troblems but with 30+ ft of climbing. Nate added a hard sit start to an old classic, Suspension of Disbelief V10. Not sure of the new rating but it definitely V10+. Filmed and edited by Marco Lefebvre.
- Allison Stewart-Patterson
- Maria Celkova
- Ayesha Khan
- Alannah Yip
- Hannah Block
- Jesse Taplin
- Kin Wah Lai
- Matt Keays
- Brock Tilling
- Tristen Gosselin
When Squamish Climbing Magazine first had the idea for the first issue, Marco Lefebvre was one of the first people to get in touch. Marco has long been a developer of the boulders in Hope, BC and it is him to thank for the feature on Hunter Creek in issue two. Last week, Marco got in touch again and we are pleased to have him back as a contributor for SCM.
Rumours have been circling of a new area in hope called ‘The Grid’. After speaking to Marco, ‘The Grid’ is a new section of the Hunter Creek chain. Marco reported that there is a lot more to develop in this area but gave us a sneak peak of a few lines on his radar. Despite being close to the city, the boulders in Hope never see as much traffic as Squamish. With regular updates from Marco, we are hoping all that changes.
The folks over at Climb Base 5 are reporting that Matt Johnson and Grant lalonde have both completed The Mandala (v12) in Bishop, CA. Nice work fellas! This problem was first climbed by Chris Sharma, and at the the time, that was a pretty big deal!
Israel Cruces is a prolific developer in the Sea to Sky Corridor. He spends days following up leads, bushwhacking in the rain just to find the perfect line only to spend days cleaning, and then waiting for everything to dry out. Here is one of his latest north of Squamish, BC. Always elusive with grades, this one is a two handed problem.
As the author of the original guidebook, Kelly Sheridan has long been a staple of the Leavenworth climbing scene. I don’t think there has been a time when I have driven down icicle canyon without seeing Kelly’s Subaru on the side of the road. When I do see his car, I know that another cluster of great boulders has been discovered. Not only is Kelly a climbing ‘sommelier’ of the Northwest, he is also one of the nicest and approachable guys around. Since the publication of Central Washington Bouldering, Leavenworth has become a must on any climbing road trip to the Pacific Northwest. Over the past few months, the buzz has started regarding the publication of the new Leavenworth guidebook and Squamish Climbing Magazine thought it best to catch up with the man himself.
Nalle Hukkataival recently made the first ascent of the Mud Springs project in Red Rocks, Nevada, naming it Kintsugi (8C). Source: Menagerie Climbing
Daniel Woods has made the first ascent of the Bishop, CA mega project on the Grandpa Peobody boulder in the Buttermilks (source: UKClimbing). Daniel can be seen climbing this project to the top in the film Exposure II (check out our review here). Looks like the training at home paid off.
Giuliano Cameroni, a Ticino local and young crusher, has sent Dreamtime (v15). Below is the video of the ascent.
For those who have enjoyed our competition coverage, we will continue again next week for the Tour De Bloc: Elevation Place. For those competing or hoping to watch the event, information can be found here.
Simon Parton and Elan Jonas Mcrae, both local BC climbers, completed The Swarm V14 in Bishop, CA a few days ago. Nice work fellas!
Here is an update of climbing news from the past week.
Jakob Schubert has repeated Fight or Flight 9b. Source: UKclimbing
Guillaume Glairon-Mondet has repeated Jan Hojer’s Le Marathon de Buissy 8C in Fontainebleau. Source: 8a.nu
Ashima Shiraishi has had a huge trip in Bishop, CA, sending Maze of Death V12, Babeurre V12, and Blood Meridian V13. Source: 8a.nu and UKClimbing
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson continue to attempt the Dawn Wall and are taking a rest day today. Source: Twitter
Climbers from all over Alberta and its flatland provincial neighbor rolled into Edmonton this past weekend, vying for a chance to claim the title, cash and glory resulting from a Tour de Bloc victory. The usual suspects and some newer faces breezed through qualifiers to set the stage for an electrifying final. For the women, the future arrived once again, with Eva Thompson and Becca Frangos strolling into finals in first and second, with the old guard just behind, as Stacey Weldon entered as the third seed. For the men, Saskachatoonian Jason Holowach failed to, well fail, as he produced the only no-falls result in qualification. Edmonton local young guns Andrew Funk and Kieran Alton-Tracy made the city proud, as the second and third seeds, respectively.
Would it be out with the old and in with the new, or would 29 be the new 17? Would Jason continue his streak of no-falls? These questions rippled through the crowd as the finalists were introduced.
Please to announce that Luke Zimmerman completed The Method (v12) today and Adolfo Guiteirez sent Muddy Waters (v10). For those who don’t know, Squamish Climbing Magazine will publish ascents that are important to local climbers so if you do know of a send or someone who has worked hard on a project, please let us know.
Here is a video of local climber Israel Cruces on the second ascent of Muddy Waters (v10) located in the Smoke Bluffs and below is a cool video of Jason Kehl on The Method (v12)
The bouldering competition at Project Climbing in Abbotsford, BC has finally come to an end and what a night to be there. Here are the results from the open competition:
1. Sean McColl
2. Jesse Taplin
3. Kin Wah lai
1. Celeste Wall
2. Alannah Yip
3. Maria Celkova
Sounds like a fantastic night. Again, special thanks to Gavin Johnson for keeping us updated. Squamish Magazine will have a review of the event
tomorrow Monday. Stay tuned!
It seems as though the competition at Project Climbing in Abbottford this week is an exciting one! We have word on the ground that the problems were awesome! Here are the results of those climbers going into the finals. The top 8 climbers from Male and Female will move to Finals which will take place tonight at 645 pm.
The November Sessions Competition at Climb Base 5 came and went this weekend. Here are the final results for Men and Women. Squamish Climbing Magazine is still looking for someone interested in covering these events on a regular basis. Please contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org if you are interested.
Women’s Open Final
Men’s Open Final
Local climber Jesse Warren has managed a rare ascent of Shelter, V13. This extremely aesthetic problem was originally established by Tim Clifford and adds a very hard sequence into Sharma’s cave, a stout V11 in its own right. Jesse is having an impressive fall, having also recently redpointed Silient Menace (aka Smell the Glove), 14c.
Jesse is also the creator of one of my favourite Squamish bouldering videos. Check it out below: