The North Shore Hive has made a lot of progress over the past month. The facility looks amazing and there is a lot of excitement about the potential of this world-class bouldering center. The video here speaks for itself. Enjoy!
Today, I came across an interesting article by cruxcrush.com regarding the recent crowdfunding effort by Alex Puccio. It is well known that professional climbing athletes make far less money than in other sports. This ‘lack of funding’ has recently led to a number of athletes (not just Alex Puccio) trying to raise money through crowdfunding on the internet. Is it right to ask for money from your peers as a professional athlete?
We checked in with Marco Lefebvre to see what has been going on in the Fraser Valley over the past week. Here is what he had to say.
‘Mike Crapo did a first ascent of a problem called Trepanning (V6) at The Stacks. The problem starts with a roof to prow offwidth and ends with a press out mantle on a steep, featureless slab. One of the best offwidth problems I’ve been on in The Valley. I then added an extension to his problem, Trepanning Ext. V7, that climbs Trepanning and transitions into the right side lip to finish with a pumpy 30+ ft uphill traverse with a press out finish.’
Kelly Sheridan just announced that the new Leavenworth Guidebook is off to the printers and those who want to receive the book as soon as possible can now pre-order. I know a lot of work has gone into this book and it is very exciting that the project is almost complete.
The pre-order for the book can be found at the Sharp End website and you will also receive a digital copy of the book immediately. If you missed our interview with Kelly about the book, please click here.
More news updates from Fontainebleau. Sean McColl has done two 8b+ boulders in a day, ‘Gecko Assis’ and ‘Super Tanker’. He noted that Gecko Assis ‘took about an hour and Supertanker is a link up traverse so it was just about figuring out a few moves.’
Sean McColl continues to tear it up in Font, flashing Elephunk (8b/V13). This is the second boulder of this grade Sean has flashed, after climbing Nagual in Hueco Tanks first try back in 2012. Here is what he had to say about Elephunk on his Sendage page:
Discovered this line in 2012 with Marshal and have been eager to try it since then. Went there with Josh, Ronnie and Jwoo who gave me all the beta and literally showed me the moves. A perfect line lost in a perfect forest.
Quite a day to be a Canadian professional climber. Sean McColl has reported that he made a quick ascent of The Traphouse” (V14, 8B+), in Font, France.
This video features Nate Woods from the Lower Mainland doing the first ascent at Elbow Lake. According to Marco, this problem is similar to No Troblems but with 30+ ft of climbing. Nate added a hard sit start to an old classic, Suspension of Disbelief V10. Not sure of the new rating but it definitely V10+. Filmed and edited by Marco Lefebvre.
When Squamish Climbing Magazine first had the idea for the first issue, Marco Lefebvre was one of the first people to get in touch. Marco has long been a developer of the boulders in Hope, BC and it is him to thank for the feature on Hunter Creek in issue two. Last week, Marco got in touch again and we are pleased to have him back as a contributor for SCM.
Rumours have been circling of a new area in hope called ‘The Grid’. After speaking to Marco, ‘The Grid’ is a new section of the Hunter Creek chain. Marco reported that there is a lot more to develop in this area but gave us a sneak peak of a few lines on his radar. Despite being close to the city, the boulders in Hope never see as much traffic as Squamish. With regular updates from Marco, we are hoping all that changes.