Here is a nice little video from prolific local hard man Jamie Finlayson of a classic V10 at Cat Lake called White Lion.
Guillaume Glairon-Mondet has established “Le Pied à Coulisse” in Fontainebleau and proposed the grade of 8C+ or V16. This could be the first problem of its grade in the famous area and one of only an handful around the world. GuiGui wrote a great blog post describing the problem which you can read about here.
While the rain washed away most of the travelling climbers, there were a few that stuck it for this weeks sunny and cold temperatures. With the drop in temperature, there has been a number of notable ascents in the boulders.
We are pleased to announce that Paul Nadler, a travelling climber from the United States, has completed Shelter (v13). Paul has been coming back to Squamish on a regular basis for a couple years now, travelling with his dog Karma. Originally called Sharma’s Cave (v11) with a french-start from the bottom, The Shelter was first climbed by Tim Clifford and starts established on the beginning holds. We are glad to see Paul is back in top form!
We are pleased to announce that Tucker Webb, originally from Penticton, sent World of Hurt (v10) last week. Originally put up by Jordan Wright, this problem towers over the forest as one of the highest ‘highballs’ in Squamish. Tucker started working the problem last September and practiced the rig on top rope before gathering enough pads (and courage!) for the send.
Tucker Webb on World of Hurt. Photo by Jill A Brown ©
Here is a video of Jeremy Smith on the problem.
A little bit of local news to keep you going. Dan Beland recently made an ascent of Revival (5.14b) on the Big Show in Chek Canyon. Dan has steadily making headway on hard sends over the past few years, with ascents of Driven (5.14a), Dinosaur Highway (5.14a) and Mike Doyle’s Adato (5.14b) at Horne Lake last year. Dan also recently made a trip to the rockies where he climbed Fully Jingus (5.13d) and Army Ants (5.13c). Great work Dan!
Dan Beland. Photo by Kim House ©
Despite less than ideal summer conditions, a number of strong locals are ticking off projects in the boulders. Most notably, Reagan Daly, a school teacher from Victoria who spends his summers in Squamish, sent his multi-season project Squaminator (V12). Reagan adds this latest ascent to an already long Squamish ticklist. What makes this list even more impressive is that he’s sent almost everything on it in the summers.
In other news Hans Christian Montenegro, originally from Colombia now calling Squamish home, has been working his way through the classics. Most recently he climbed Overdrive (V11) after falling many time from the last move of this long traverse. He also pulled off a rare repeat of Viper Low (V10) and climbed classics like Summoning Sit (V11/12) and Encore Une Fois (V11), among others.
The always industrious Jamie Finlayson made short work of the tricky Tippytoe, Tippytoe (V10) between attempts on his long term project, Dreamcatcher (14d).
Here is a nice little video of Reagan sending a couple problems in his local area, the boulders of Duncan, BC:
Despite some very warm weather, Jamie Finlayson has managed to send his first V13, climbing Terminator in the North Walls. This excellent long problems links Squaminator into Squaminator Traverse and requires a unique blend of power and endurance. Jamie posted this photo and caption on his Instagram feed:
There are very few moments in life that sum up the emotions of completing a climbing/bouldering project, especially when you have no expectations. Sometimes great things happen when you least expect it! When you devote yourself totally to a single goal, the completion of that goal feels amazing! I am very happy to have put to rest the Terminator V13 last night. This is my hardest problem to date. Thanks for the great spotting Oscar and Furgus! @petzl_official @evolvusa @patagonia #squamish #bouldering #yes #dogs
Indoor climbing in the Vancouver has come a long way in the past decade, with the opening of Climb Base 5 (formerly known as Cliffhanger Coquitlam) and The Hive Vancouver. However, one thing that has always been missing (in my opinion) is a 45 degree training wall jam packed with holds that stay the same for the years. This style of training is very much a throw-back to the british climbing scene and the old guard of climbers from Vancouver Island have known the benefits of having a wall like this for years.
Kaleb Thomas, the head routesetter at Climb Base 5, recently posted this photo of their new outdoor training wall. We hope it gets everyone thinking in the right direction!
Photo by Kyle Rurak ©
Pleased to report that Jamie Finlayson has sent The Summoning from the sit start in Murrin Park. This is his second v12 this month, with an ascent of Frontside (v12) and Sidhartha (v11) during the great weather. Pretty awesome considering Jamie is still recovering from back surgery.
Luke Zimmerman also sent The Summoning sit start last week, but reported it as v11 on his scorecard. Luke used the exact beta as featured in the video.
The North Shore Hive has made a lot of progress over the past month. The facility looks amazing and there is a lot of excitement about the potential of this world-class bouldering center. The video here speaks for itself. Enjoy!
Today, I came across an interesting article by cruxcrush.com regarding the recent crowdfunding effort by Alex Puccio. It is well known that professional climbing athletes make far less money than in other sports. This ‘lack of funding’ has recently led to a number of athletes (not just Alex Puccio) trying to raise money through crowdfunding on the internet. Is it right to ask for money from your peers as a professional athlete?
We checked in with Marco Lefebvre to see what has been going on in the Fraser Valley over the past week. Here is what he had to say.
‘Mike Crapo did a first ascent of a problem called Trepanning (V6) at The Stacks. The problem starts with a roof to prow offwidth and ends with a press out mantle on a steep, featureless slab. One of the best offwidth problems I’ve been on in The Valley. I then added an extension to his problem, Trepanning Ext. V7, that climbs Trepanning and transitions into the right side lip to finish with a pumpy 30+ ft uphill traverse with a press out finish.’
Kelly Sheridan just announced that the new Leavenworth Guidebook is off to the printers and those who want to receive the book as soon as possible can now pre-order. I know a lot of work has gone into this book and it is very exciting that the project is almost complete.
The pre-order for the book can be found at the Sharp End website and you will also receive a digital copy of the book immediately. If you missed our interview with Kelly about the book, please click here.
More news updates from Fontainebleau. Sean McColl has done two 8b+ boulders in a day, ‘Gecko Assis’ and ‘Super Tanker’. He noted that Gecko Assis ‘took about an hour and Supertanker is a link up traverse so it was just about figuring out a few moves.’
Sean McColl continues to tear it up in Font, flashing Elephunk (8b/V13). This is the second boulder of this grade Sean has flashed, after climbing Nagual in Hueco Tanks first try back in 2012. Here is what he had to say about Elephunk on his Sendage page:
Discovered this line in 2012 with Marshal and have been eager to try it since then. Went there with Josh, Ronnie and Jwoo who gave me all the beta and literally showed me the moves. A perfect line lost in a perfect forest.
Quite a day to be a Canadian professional climber. Sean McColl has reported that he made a quick ascent of The Traphouse” (V14, 8B+), in Font, France.
This video features Nate Woods from the Lower Mainland doing the first ascent at Elbow Lake. According to Marco, this problem is similar to No Troblems but with 30+ ft of climbing. Nate added a hard sit start to an old classic, Suspension of Disbelief V10. Not sure of the new rating but it definitely V10+. Filmed and edited by Marco Lefebvre.