With the 2017 BC Bouldering Provincials this weekend, we thought we would go ahead and do two interviews to kick things off. The past few years has seen a number of competitors jump back on the competition scene and this year we saw local climber JJ Mah make it back to podium a number of times this season. Growing up in North Vancouver, JJ started climbing at The Edge Climbing Centre under the tutelage of Andrew Wilson and Mike Doyle. Despite being part of such a strong group, JJ has always stood out because of his smooth climbing style and flawless technique. We are so psyched to check in with JJ before this weekend and here is what he had to say.

JJ Mah. Photo bu Alex Fricker ©

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This weekend, Project Climbing Cloverdale will be hosting the 2017 BC Bouldering Provincials sanctioned by Sport Climbing BC. With the influx of Albertan’s onto the BC climbing scene, we thought it would be a great idea to interview Canmore-based climber Becca Frangos.

Becca Frangos on Endless Summer (5.13d). Photo by Sara Frangos ©

Born and raised in Canmore, Alberta, Becca is no stranger to the competition climbing scene. She was the Youth Bouldering and Lead National Champion in 2015, the Open National Lead Champion in 2015 and participated in the Lead World Cup Circuit in 2016. Graduating high school in 2015, Becca, along with her sister Sara Frangos and good friend Andrew Funk, sought out a year long climbing adventure through Europe. Sending her first 5.13d during the trip(Labyrinth in Kalymnos), Becca came home and made an ascent of the infamous Endless Summer (5.13d) in her own backyard. Currently attending the University of Victoria, Becca has made The Boulders in Saanich her home gym as she trains for the 2017 World Cup Circuit. Here is what she had to say.

Becca Frangos. Photo courtesy of Shane Murdoch ©

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The 2016 Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival will be kicking off their Fall Series next week, running November 22nd to the 25th, 2016. Added late to the program was a film titled ‘Before it Falls’ featuring the Ewbank Route on the Totem Pole in Tasmania. We thought it would be cool to catch up with the film makers to find out how they brought their vision to reality. The film, created by Simon Bischoff and Mathew Farrell will be featured on the Rock Climbing Night, Friday, November 25th at Centennial Theatre in North Vancouver.

Matthew Farrell. Photo courtesy of Matt Farrell ©

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With the 2016 Vancouver International Film Festival just around the corner, Squamish Climbing Magazine has gone full tilt with an interview of the festival’s first guest speaker, Kevin Jorgeson. Originally gaining fame with the first ascent of Ambrosia in Bishop, CA, Kevin’s name became synonymous with difficult highball bouldering. After completing Ambrosia, Kevin was ready for his next big project when he was inspired by Tommy Caldwell’s clip of The Dawn Wall in the film Progression. After an email introduction , Tommy and Kevin set off on a seven year journey to complete The Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, CA.

Kevin Jorgeson at home on El Cap. Photo courtesy of James Lucas ©

Kevin and Tommy’s ascent of The Dawn Wall was big for the climbing community but no one could have predicted how it would set fire to the media world earlier last year. With all the hype, big (and sometimes strange!) doors have opened for both Kevin and Tommy. Squamish Climbing Magazine had the chance to sit down with Kevin and talk about the hype, what it all meant, and what is on the horizon. Here is what he had to say.

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The 2016 Vancouver International Film Festival is just around the corner and Squamish Climbing Magazine is more than excited to be a part of it. The film festival has long been an event that brings the climbing community together to celebrate the virtue of adventure and this year is no exception. With any event of this magnitude, it simply doesn’t put on itself. Behind the scenes there are cogs and gears moving long before any of the films hit the screen. From volunteers to directors, people are dedicating hours and hours to making the festival happen.

One of those people who has taken on a pretty big role over the past six years in bringing the festival together is Tom Wright. Tom Wright spent the first 20 years of his life living a typical middle class English life. A life changing year studying in Montreal introduced him to rock climbing, snowboarding and Canadians – all of which he loved immediately! A natural move out West followed and for the past 7 years Tom has immersed himself in the coast mountain culture. He now lives in Squamish with his girlfriend Vikki and their dog Tundra. His official title at VIMFF is the Director of Film and Programming but he is also the guy who is there every night trying to make sure that things run smoothly. We thought it would be a great idea to interview Tom and get his thoughts on the festival this year and some of the highlights he is looking forward to.

Tom Wright on the VIMFF stage. Photo courtesy of VIMFF ©

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Last week, we ran an interview with Tiffany Melius as she prepared for the 2016 BC Open Bouldering Provincials. Going into the event, Tiffany was ready to defend her title as Provincial Champion in a strong group of female competitors. However, her goals for that event did not go as planned. Tiffany ended up placing in sixth during the competition putting her in second place overall in the BC Provincial rankings, with the 2016 BC Open Provincial Champion title going to Alannah Yip.

Often in our interviews with competitors, we focus on the preparation for these events and then the outcome, but rarely do we have a chance to stop and reflect on what happens when an athlete doesn’t meet a goal that they set for themselves. In the sport of climbing, our personal goals are often set just below failure and in doing so we need to be able to weather the storm, reflect on those moments, and get back up and try again. Tiffany was open enough to talk about some of her reflections after this weekend and here is what she had to say.

Tiffany Melius at 2016 Provincials. Photo by Ken Chow ©

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