We are pleased to announce that Sean McColl has made semi-finals in his first World Cup lead appearance in 2017. Sean completed both qualifications routes along with 22 other athletes moving to the semi-final round.
Here is a summary of the qualifications below.
Below are the results of the other Canadian athletes competing.
It was not long ago that Scarpa had almost gone quiet on the North American climbing shoe front. It was the introduction of the Scarpa Instinct via international competition that pushed Scarpa back into the spotlight and helped Scarpa with, what now feels like, a domination of the North American shoe market. The Scarpa Instinct, from velco to lace-up, is a high performance downturned climbing shoe that can be used as an ‘everyday performance shoe’ for those seeking a great blend of power and sensitivity. Performing best on overhanging terrain, the Instinct VS also has the ability to handle slab and vertical climbing well, making it reliable in almost any situation Now with the introduction of the lace-up version, which provides stability and strength on vertical terrain, the Instinct line may simply be unstoppable.
On Wednesday, April 19, The Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival will feature Steve Swenson, American aplinist, as he explores the nature of high altitude, alpine climbing, the complexities of remote expeditions, the geo political workings of Kasmir, as well as his passion for the cultural communities in this region of the world. The presentation will be followed by a Q & A where four experts will bring their unique perspectives to the Kashmir Conflict and how it effects climbers and trekkers.
With a number of ascents under his belt, including the second ascent of the North Face of Mount Alberta, in 1981, the first ascent of the Northeast Face of Kwangde Nup and Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat in 1989 and 2004 respectively, and oxygen-free ascents of K2 and Everest and Steve Swenson is no stranger to adventure. Now retired from Engineering but still climbing, Steve has taken the time to reflect back on his experiences in the Karokoram, as well as the changes that have taken place in the region over the past four decades. Squamish Climbing Magazine had the chance to catch up with Steve before his presentation on Wednesday and here is what he had to say.
Here is an update from our good friends at the Squamish Access Societ. Be sure to be become a member of this great organization if you use the Sea to Sky Corridor as the continue to secure access for all present and future climbers.
Do you climb at Chek Canyon and at Cat Lake? You should be aware of a number of industrial activities that are occurring on the Conroy FSR and Culiliton Creek FSR this spring. Areas above Chek Canyon recreation site on the Conroy FSR and along the Culliton FSR are being logged this spring and summer. Road building operations are to commence approximately April 7, 2017 on Conroy FSR and Road Building and harvesting is scheduled to start on the Culition FSR April 21st, 2017. Additionally, the Chek Canyon Recreation camp site is being significantly expanded this spring. All these events mean Chek Canyon is going to be a very busy place this spring and summer on weekdays.
This weekend, Edmonton, Alberta will play host to the 2017 Canadian Open Bouldering Championships. With all the strong competitors coming out of the woodworks to compete this year, we had a number of people who we could have interviewed before the competition. Sticking out above the rest was Edmonton-local and prairie crusher Andrew Funk. After graduating high school, Andrew took his stoke outside and travelled around Europe sport climbing in limestone paradise. After sending his first 5.14a (Mal de Isla), Andrew made his way home only to find himself back on the road. Now attending the University of British Columbia in his first year of Engineering, Andrew has found a home on the Hive Climbing team in Vancouver and has pushed himself this year under the tutelage of Jeff Thompson and Christian Core. We thought it would be awesome to check in with Andrew as he gets ready to fly home. Here is what he had to say.
Raised in the mountains of Lake Tahoe, Brette first found herself immersed in skiing as a child. After years of competitive ski racing, Brette first found climbing while attending a boarding school in New Hampshire designed for sports athletes. Years later, while attending the University of British Columbia, Brette had the opportunity to sample the granite splitters of the Sea to Sky where she began to push her own limits, sending a number off difficult routes, including The Shadow (5.13a) and The Edge of Pan (5.13b), while putting up a few first ascents of her own. With her skills in tow, Brette hit the media spotlight after soloing Chiaro Di Luna, 11a, 750m in Patagonia. Recently featured in this year’s Reel Rock tour, Brette continues to push the limits of her climbing through a number of big wall experiences. Fresh off a trip from Patagonia (literally yesterday), Brette still has the fire in her eyes as she settles into the West Coast winter with plans for a few mixed climbing adventures in the North Cascades. We had a chance to catch up with Brette before tomorrow nights show and here is what she had to say.
Born in Switzerland, Nina Caprez quickly became a young rock star after years of growing up in the mountains. Competing internationally as a youth, she ended up leaving the competition scene to focus on outdoor climbing in France. Traveling around the world, Nina made a name for herself in big wall climbing, with ascents of Ultime Démence, 5 pitches (8a+) and La Ramirole, 5 pitches (8b) in Verdon, and Orbayu (8c+/9a) in Naranjo de Bulnes, Spain. Over the past year, Nina had a life changing experience after contracting a parasite in Turkey that left her hospitalized and fighting for her life. Now recovered, Nina has re-discovered her love for climbing and has had an awakening about her life and how grateful she is to use her body. We had a chance to check in with Nina before the show tomorrow (Thursday) and here is what she had to say.
Have you ever wanted to use belay glasses while wearing corrective eyewear or sunglasses but couldn’t handle the bulk of a second set of glasses? Thanks to the innovation team at Y and Y, the new Clip Up Belay Glasses bring the traditional belay glasses to spectacle wearers around the world. Compact, light, and durable, the team at Y and Y development thought of just about everything when designing the new Clip Up. Flip them up, flip them down, the Clip Up gives spectacle wearers even more options than the typical belay glasses. We had a chance to field test the new glasses and here is what we had to say.
As the sport of climbing grows, both responsive technologies and thinner rubbers have influenced the technical design of the modern climbing shoe. As these technologies evolve, shoes are becoming much more refined, moving from the traditional full foot last to multiple connected lasts that work together to create a symmetry of precision. With the re-design of the Evolv Shaman, the designers at Evolv have taken a big step forward in the ever changing climate of the modern climbing shoe. The Evolv Shaman is a technical, downturned climbing shoe that really shines on overhanging terrain and technical heel hooking. It’s natural downturned shape combined with its padded tongue makes it one of the most comfortable climbing shoes we have ever reviewed.
The 2016 Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival will be kicking off their Fall Series next week, running November 22nd to the 25th, 2016. We are very excited to announce that local Vancouver climber and photographer, Rich Wheater will be speaking during the Rock Climbing night on Friday, November 25th at Centennial Theatre in North Vancouver. Rich is an active member of our climbing community both as a developer and contributor to a variety of climbing media outlets. He recently became a Director of the Climbers Access Society of BC. We had a chance to catch up with Rich this week and here is what he had to say.
The Petzl Arial 9.5 Dry Climbing Rope was designed for the experienced climber looking for a good balance between performance and maximum durability. Treated with Duratec Dry and EverFlex handling, this rope is ideal in all conditions and will keep you climbing throughout the seasons. During our six month testing period, we found that this rope can be defined by its durability. The Petzl Arial was able to take substantial abuse when climbing on a regular basis and continued to perform well throughout its lifespan.
With comfort and durability at the forefront of its strengths, the Outdoor Research Uberlayer Hooded Jacket is one of the most versatile jackets we have field tested over the last six months. With its ability to hold heat where you need it and dump it out where you don’t, the Uberlayer is the ideal choice when hiking to and from the crag, belaying during a project run, or just making coffee while waking up outside in the Pacific Northwest. This versatile mid-layer proved to be extremely durable in the harshest climbing conditions, making it a go-to jacket for anyone serious about staying warm during cooler conditions.
As Scarpa continues to make a strong push in the North American market, they also continue to impress us with beautifully crafted shoes for climbers who love to get technical with their tools. The Scarpa Furia is a technical climbing shoe designed to maximize feel from plastic to rock. It features a sensitive 3mm rubber with no midsole and an aggressive downturned shape designed for overhanging terrain. We had an opportunity to review the shoe over the last four months and here is what we had to say.
Peter Croft has long been a legend in the climbing world. Originally born on Vancouver Island and then first learning how to climb in Squamish, Peter cut his teeth in Squamish during a time that was a pure adventure, free from any influence of previous generations. With his first ascents of University Wall (along with Greg Foweraker and Hamish Fraser) and The Shadow, Peter soon became a part of the climbing fabric that made Squamish history. In this interview, we dive into Peter’s origins in Squamish and what life was like in those days as well as his transition to Yosemite and how Squamish prepared him in his future pursuits. Here is what he had to say.
The Atom line of jackets by Arc’teryx have an established reputation as warm, light and stylish jackets that are best used as cold weather mid-layers and shoulder season outer-layers. The Atom Super light (SL) is similar in fit and appearance to the Atom LT and AR, but it has much lighter insulation that makes it best suited for high output activities or milder days. Squamish Climbing Magazine has been putting the Atom SL through its paces on snow, rock, and muddy trails over the past 10 weeks, and we’ve found it to be a versatile addition to an admittedly already packed gear closet.
The Squamish Access Society conducted a survey over the last month regarding the upcoming Squamish Rampage Festival on August 13th, 2016. The festival revolves around the Stawamus Chief Boulders and is starting to gather a fair amount of momentum. Squamish Access Society was looking for public opinion regarding the festival and the results of the survey can be found here.