Over the past two years, innovations in climbing shoe technology have been at an overall high and shoe companies across the globe have been tasked with keeping up if they want to stay on top of the market. The team at Evolv is no exception to this rule, with new models coming out at a rapid pace in order to keep current in the competing shoe market.
The Agro is Evolv’s answer to the ever changing market of high performance climbing shoes. The Evolv Agro’s downturned one strap design is built for steep overhanging climbing that demands power in your feet. It features 4.2 mm TRAX SAS high friction rubber, Evolv’s new TPS (Tension Power System) technology and a thick toe rubber upper for optimal toe hooking performance. The Agro is a much more streamlined design that previous Evolv models and is a good step forward in the Evolv high performance line.
For those looking for a robust quickdraw that never wears out, the Edelrid Bulletproof Quickdraw is a no brainer. Thanks to the innovation over at Edelrid, the Ederid Bulletproof Quickdraw features a steel inset that sits inside the biner that makes contact with the rope while climbing, drastically reducing wear and increasing the life of your quickdraw. Placed within an aluminum biner, the steel inset of this draw packs a punch. Over our six week field test of these draws, they showed no signs of wear after being used in some very sandy conditions.
Over the past six weeks, we had the opportunity to sample and taste the REV Dry meals of Nomad Nutrition.
Based in Vancouver, BC, Nomad Nutrition is reinventing alpine meals by using organic whole food ingredients while maximizing nutrition without sacrificing taste. With four different flavours and a growing inventory, Nomad Nutrition is sure to make it on your pack list, whether your are on the road or backpacking across the Tantalus range. After two of our testers sampled each meal multiple times, the bottom line is that these meals taste great and offer enough energy to enjoy the day hiking and climbing wherever you are.
We are pleased to announce that Sean McColl has made semi-finals in his first World Cup lead appearance in 2017. Sean completed both qualifications routes along with 22 other athletes moving to the semi-final round.
Here is a summary of the qualifications below.
Below are the results of the other Canadian athletes competing.
It was not long ago that Scarpa had almost gone quiet on the North American climbing shoe front. It was the introduction of the Scarpa Instinct via international competition that pushed Scarpa back into the spotlight and helped Scarpa with, what now feels like, a domination of the North American shoe market. The Scarpa Instinct, from velco to lace-up, is a high performance downturned climbing shoe that can be used as an ‘everyday performance shoe’ for those seeking a great blend of power and sensitivity. Performing best on overhanging terrain, the Instinct VS also has the ability to handle slab and vertical climbing well, making it reliable in almost any situation Now with the introduction of the lace-up version, which provides stability and strength on vertical terrain, the Instinct line may simply be unstoppable.
On Wednesday, April 19, The Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival will feature Steve Swenson, American aplinist, as he explores the nature of high altitude, alpine climbing, the complexities of remote expeditions, the geo political workings of Kasmir, as well as his passion for the cultural communities in this region of the world. The presentation will be followed by a Q & A where four experts will bring their unique perspectives to the Kashmir Conflict and how it effects climbers and trekkers.
With a number of ascents under his belt, including the second ascent of the North Face of Mount Alberta, in 1981, the first ascent of the Northeast Face of Kwangde Nup and Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat in 1989 and 2004 respectively, and oxygen-free ascents of K2 and Everest and Steve Swenson is no stranger to adventure. Now retired from Engineering but still climbing, Steve has taken the time to reflect back on his experiences in the Karokoram, as well as the changes that have taken place in the region over the past four decades. Squamish Climbing Magazine had the chance to catch up with Steve before his presentation on Wednesday and here is what he had to say.
Here is an update from our good friends at the Squamish Access Societ. Be sure to be become a member of this great organization if you use the Sea to Sky Corridor as the continue to secure access for all present and future climbers.
Do you climb at Chek Canyon and at Cat Lake? You should be aware of a number of industrial activities that are occurring on the Conroy FSR and Culiliton Creek FSR this spring. Areas above Chek Canyon recreation site on the Conroy FSR and along the Culliton FSR are being logged this spring and summer. Road building operations are to commence approximately April 7, 2017 on Conroy FSR and Road Building and harvesting is scheduled to start on the Culition FSR April 21st, 2017. Additionally, the Chek Canyon Recreation camp site is being significantly expanded this spring. All these events mean Chek Canyon is going to be a very busy place this spring and summer on weekdays.
This weekend, Edmonton, Alberta will play host to the 2017 Canadian Open Bouldering Championships. With all the strong competitors coming out of the woodworks to compete this year, we had a number of people who we could have interviewed before the competition. Sticking out above the rest was Edmonton-local and prairie crusher Andrew Funk. After graduating high school, Andrew took his stoke outside and travelled around Europe sport climbing in limestone paradise. After sending his first 5.14a (Mal de Isla), Andrew made his way home only to find himself back on the road. Now attending the University of British Columbia in his first year of Engineering, Andrew has found a home on the Hive Climbing team in Vancouver and has pushed himself this year under the tutelage of Jeff Thompson and Christian Core. We thought it would be awesome to check in with Andrew as he gets ready to fly home. Here is what he had to say.
Raised in the mountains of Lake Tahoe, Brette first found herself immersed in skiing as a child. After years of competitive ski racing, Brette first found climbing while attending a boarding school in New Hampshire designed for sports athletes. Years later, while attending the University of British Columbia, Brette had the opportunity to sample the granite splitters of the Sea to Sky where she began to push her own limits, sending a number off difficult routes, including The Shadow (5.13a) and The Edge of Pan (5.13b), while putting up a few first ascents of her own. With her skills in tow, Brette hit the media spotlight after soloing Chiaro Di Luna, 11a, 750m in Patagonia. Recently featured in this year’s Reel Rock tour, Brette continues to push the limits of her climbing through a number of big wall experiences. Fresh off a trip from Patagonia (literally yesterday), Brette still has the fire in her eyes as she settles into the West Coast winter with plans for a few mixed climbing adventures in the North Cascades. We had a chance to catch up with Brette before tomorrow nights show and here is what she had to say.
Born in Switzerland, Nina Caprez quickly became a young rock star after years of growing up in the mountains. Competing internationally as a youth, she ended up leaving the competition scene to focus on outdoor climbing in France. Traveling around the world, Nina made a name for herself in big wall climbing, with ascents of Ultime Démence, 5 pitches (8a+) and La Ramirole, 5 pitches (8b) in Verdon, and Orbayu (8c+/9a) in Naranjo de Bulnes, Spain. Over the past year, Nina had a life changing experience after contracting a parasite in Turkey that left her hospitalized and fighting for her life. Now recovered, Nina has re-discovered her love for climbing and has had an awakening about her life and how grateful she is to use her body. We had a chance to check in with Nina before the show tomorrow (Thursday) and here is what she had to say.