Nice little flick featuring Dave MacLeod and getting into development.
Check out this nice little flick featuring some classic local boulders. Squamish is a truly beautiful place and this video does a great job of capturing that natural beauty.
We are pleased to announce that Marc Eveleigh sent Leviathan (5.14a) at Acephale today marking his first of the grade. Marc sent on his second go of the day as conditions were primed this afternoon. Marc had been working on the route for only a few weeks. Recently, Marc has taken a lead role in developing the Bow valley’s bouldering scene. Congratulations! More to come from this young climber.
We are pleased to release the topo of a new wall found in Chek Canyon through the hard work of Toby Foord-Kelcey. The Wall features a good selection of overhanging routes from 5.10 to 5.13. Toby recently finished the test-piece of the wall, Incandescence (5.13a), in which he had to train specifically to complete. Special thanks to Toby for his efforts along with CASBC for the bolts!
The cliff can be found at the beginning of the Conroy Creek Service Rd. Park at the yellow gate and walk two minutes up a super mellow road in a clear cut! For topo, please download here.
We are very pleased to announce that Alexander Megos flashed The Path (5.14r) on his last day in the Canadian Rockies yesterday. After rolling up to the route, Sonnie Trotter needed to call a friend to confirm a few gear placements and then Alex dispatched the route with ease. Talk about capping off an amazing trip. Megos and co are off to Squamish over the next few days despite some hot temps.
Yesterday Alex Megos (@alexandermegos) FLASHED Sonnie Trotter's (@sonnietrotter) The Path 5.14r. At the base of the route, we had to teach him how to place a cam. With Sonnie belaying and relaying beta, Alex embarked on the most inspiring piece of rock climbing I've ever seen. Over the next 40 minutes he calmly ticked his way through each of the bouldery cruxes, at times being 20-30ft run out over C3's, which hopefully were placed correctly. Pulling v10 over a suspect 000 absolutely blows my mind. Alex is not just a sport climber or a boulderer, he's a world class ROCK CLIMBER who will change the face of our sport. Hold on tight folks, the next decade is going to be a wild ride!!! @patagonia_climb #ThePath #BackOfTheLake #lakelouise
Over the past month, Thomasina Pidgeon has spearheaded a project to infuse the old culture of climbing back in to the forest that we share and love. Funded by Friends of Stawamus, she is hoping to move this project further by collaborating with BC Parks, Squamish Access Society, and Climbers Access Society of BC. Stay tuned for fundraising and donation information.
Recent News ‘Alex Megos Establishes Canada’s Hardest Route, Fight Club (5.15b), at Raven’s Crag in Banff, AB’
We are pleased to announce that Alex Megos has made the first ascent of the hardest route in Canadian history! The route, Fight Club (5.15b) located at Ravens Crag in Banff, AB was sent late yesterday on his fourth go of the day after working the rig over five days. The route itself is an extension to an open project that was bolted by Sonnie Trotter on a whim earlier this month.
Perhaps the Canadian Rockies have more to offer in terms of hard climbing! Only time will tell! Be on the look out for the footage of this route filmed by Sonnie Trotter!
We are pleased to announce that Stu Smith made the first ascent of Mullet Power (5.12d/13a) in Smoke Bluffs this week. Stu had scrubbed the line a few years ago but deemed it impossible. The line, located in the Island in the Sky area, follows a thin seem up a short overhanging wall. According to Stu, the route requires a lot of compression slapping and small gear with the top crux only protected by a micro nut and a horrible 000 c3. He reported that falling at the top would most likely seem you ripping and taking a digger.
Here is the iphone video of Stu on the route.
Here are the livefeeds of the 2016 IFSC World Cup Bouldering MUNICH Semi-finals and Finals. Unfortunately, there will be no Canadian athletes featured but the action is surely not to be missed.
Semi-final round starting at 3:30am Mountain time.
Final round starting at 1030am Mountain time.
With a large amount of development over the past few years and a few of the open projects falling in the last two weeks, Evan Hau went to the effort to create a new topo for the area. Please note below some caution regarding the bolts on a number of routes in the area.
We are pleased to announce that Cody Leyden has made the first ascent of Flight of Icarus (5.13a) at the New World crag in Penticton, BC. According to Cody, the climb is an easy 12 to a v6 or v7 crux followed by fun climbing to the top. Speaking to Cody, he noted that many of the hard moves come above the bolts. Spicy!
We are pleased to announce that Dan Beland has made the second ascent of Elan Jonas-McCrae’s A Stressful Day at the Office (5.14b/c) at Horne Lake yesterday. Dan cam very close on the weekend and decided to make a weekday trip to push the send. Below is footage of his attempt on Saturday.
Chatting with Dan today, he was unsure of the grade but noted that the crux was much shorter than ADATO but the moves were way harder. After finishing the route, Dan re-climbed the crux of ADATO and thought ASDATO was much more difficult. Congratulations Dan!
Another little flick from Stu Smith featuring the route Burning Down the Coil (5.12d) in Crumpit Woods, Squamish, BC.
Another edition of ‘Great Wide Open’ this time featuring Alex Honnold.
We are pleased to announce that Stu Smith has recently put up Ship of Theseus (5.12+/13-) at The Overlook under the Sea to Sky Gondola. According to Stu, the route climbs the crack through the slightly overhung golden wall and joins into Colin Moorehead’s ‘Reverse Cowgirl’.
The second episode of Jared Leto’s Great Wide Open featuring Renan Ozturk. This one has a bit of soul in it and is well worth a watch!
For those looking to follow Canadians Josh Muller and Jason Holawach tonight, here is the live feed for the 2016 Psicobloc Masters. Such a great competition and very very fun to watch! The live feed should start at 7 pm mountain time!