Highlights from 2017 IFSC Bouldering Mumbai FINAL.
We are pleased to announce that Canadian athlete Alannah Yip has made the semi-final round at the 2017 IFSC World Cup Bouldering event in Navi Mumbai, India.
Below are the live feeds for semi-finals and finals.
Semi-finals starting on Saturday @ 830pm.
Finals starting on Sunday @ 445am
We are pleased to announce that Jason Ammerlaan and Colin Moorhead have established a new route, Lunar Tide (5.11d, 250 m, 10 pitches), on the Zodiac Wall in Squamish, BC.
Lunar Tide (5.11d, 250 m, 10 pitches)
Approach: As for Gone Surfing. Follow Astro Ledge across and past Parallel Passages. Two bolt belay can be found under the obvious splitters of Gone Surfing. If you’ve reached the Calling, then you have gone too far.
BC Parks staff and climber volunteer attempts have been attempting to locate the falcon nest in the Squamish Buttress/ Apron/ South Gully area this week. Their work along with additional climber reports (Thanks guys!) indicate that falcons have nested in the Lower South gully area at around the height of Memorial Crack and terminus of Rock-On. Juvenile falcons have been observed adjacent to Calculus Crack. Effective immediately, BC parks is amending the falcon closure area to the Lower South Gully from its border formed by Calculus Crack with following routes affected:
• Calculus Crack and its new Neighbor
• Memorial Crack and Ledge
• Bad Pants Party
• Rock-on Area (Rock on, Bastille, Hard-on, The Great Arch)
• The Opal Wall (Mercy Street, The Opal)
• Mushy Peas
The previous closure for the Squamish Buttress / Butt Lite ,the Echelon wall (Ultimate Everything, Upper Echelon), and Prow and Kashmir Walls is now lifted. .
BC Parks and volunteer climbers are to continue falcon monitoring and potentially lift this this closure in the next couple weeks as the fledglings appear to be close to leaving the nest.
We are pleased to announce that Vancouver-based climber and longtime Squamish veteran, Senja Pelonen, has sent Moment of Silence (5.13c) at Horne Lake, BC.
Known for her early ascent of Zombie Roof (5.12d) and numerous photos across a variety of climbing media, Senja has been enjoying the freedom of the road for the past few months. It was that freedom lead her to spend some considerable amount of time over on the island, and specifically Horne Lake where yesterday she sent her first 5.13c! Congratulations Senja!
We are very psyched to announce that American climber, Quest Grad and resident of Vancouver, Mike Foley has made an ascent of Dreamcatcher (5.14d). After being ever so close for a couple years, Mike put that thing to rest yesterday. Truly admirable tenacity to go back to a project that has beat you down and put it to bed!
The end of an era. Decided to make the most of the longest day of the year and drove up to Squamish after a work. Tired but psyched, I made a solid effort on Dreamcatcher only to fall slapping the finishing jug. After a short rest, I tied in one more time. With a few little mistakes I made it to final rest before the crux. Some deep breaths, a couple power screams, and a split second decision to change some beta and I found myself clipping the chains. This has been my longest and most mentally challenging endeavor of my climbing career. Hands down my proudest achievement. Coming back to work today feels surreal. Mixed feelings of relief, excitement, and disblief . So many thanks to everyone who has helped me along way. . . 🙏 @paul_nadler for the raw send footy, @toryannajumpingbean for the 🎣 and @jessecwarren for the dog control . . @lasportivana @petzl_official
The cradle of bouldering for over 130 years, in Fontainebleau the first 8A already boasts a 33-year history. However, even today, with the advent of a ninth Bleau grade, Jacky Godoffe’s C’était demain remains a tough nut to crack.
We are pleased to announce that Jason Green has completed a new two-pitch climb on the Bulletheads, Stawamus Chief, Squamish, BC
The climb itself, Mystic Fingers (5.11d) is located 10 meters left of Bullethead East and climbs a series of thin cracks and micro corners. Described by Green as ‘Really fun technical climbing with most cruxes bolted but you’ll still need a rack up to #1 Camalot with a few extra small pieces and small wires’.
Vancouver and Squamish news media are reporting a burned out vehicle found on the Cheekye Forest Service Rd.
Information of the incident in question first surfaced online on the Squamish Climbing Public Facebook Group with a post stating that a frequent contributor of the group, Jesse James, had died in a vehicle fire. As the community dealt with the news online, a number of testaments to Jesse’s character were posted along with some questions regarding the story.
According to Joseph Wong, a member of the Vancouver climbing community, Jesse James drove the same vehicle as described in police report and often slept the night in the Cat Lake area.
However, it should be noted that the RCMP have not identified the body at this time and the nature of the incident is unclear given official reports.
Below is the original media release.
The Integrated Homicide Investigation Team is looking into the death of a man whose body was found a week ago inside a burned-out vehicle on the Cheekye Forest Service Road, north of Squamish.
The man “remains unidentified,” Squamish RCMP Cpl. Sascha Banks said in an email. The vehicle has been identified as a 2000 red GMC Yukon XL.
The burned out vehicle is a 2000 GMC Yukon XL similar to this. SUBMITTED / RCMP
“Due to the difficulty of fire investigations and the suspicious nature of the incident IHIT was engaged from the onset,” Cpl. Banks added. The man’s death has been determined to be a homicide.
Anyone with information about the man or the vehicle or who saw any suspicious activity on the Cheekye FSR between June 13 and 14 are asked to contact police via the IHIT Information Line at 1-877-551-IHIT (4448), by email at firstname.lastname@example.org or anonymously through Crime Stoppers by phone at 1-800-222-TIPS (8477).
Squamish Climbing Magazine will provide more details on this story as it unfolds.
We are very excited to announce that Gabriel Moch sent his project Something Wicked This Way Comes (V12) yesterday at Gibb’s Cave, Squamish, BC. Gabe successfully channeled his inner sport climber to rest his way up the 25+ move monster, topping out yesterday evening.
Jon Cardwell going through the process of projecting on Papichulo.
Another successful year at the 2017 Rock The Blocs Bouldering Festival in Kelowna, BC thanks to the hard work of Andy White and other locals. Here is a breakdown from Andy on the weekend.
Over 250 people participated in the competition on Saturday and there were well over 100 people again on Sunday for a day of tours, clinics and lots of climbing. A total of between 350-400 participants over the 2 day event, and this was definitely the best year yet. Good weather, awesome climbs, and lots of fun. With no Eric Sethna or Alannah Yip to defend titles this year, and with Staci White guiding this year, it left the door open for a new men’s and women’s winner. Josh’s scorecard was the best ever at RTB.
1st- Josh Muller (Nerf Roof (V12), Driven (V11)- flash, Detour (V10)- flash
2nd- Scott Eveleigh,
3rd- Andrew Funk
1st- Tiffany Melius
2nd- Rebecca Bowman
3rd- Alison Stewart-Patterson
Permin Bertle on Ruta de Cobre (9a/5.14d in Chile.
At the beginning of this year, the Climbers Access Society of BC put their bolt program on hold in order to re-evaluate a number of issues regarding the program including liability, hardware specifications, and a new application program.
Last week, the CASBC Board of Directors reinstated the Crag Development Program (previously the CASBC Bolt Fund) along with a number of tweaks that rose from discussions between board members to best serve the greater climbing community across British Columbia.
We are very very VERY excited to announce that Jared Nelson sent his long-term project Pulse (5.14a) yesterday in Chek Canyon, Squamish, BC. This was a route that Jared put more effort into than any other route, spanning across two years. We are very excited for him. Congratulations Jared! Word on the street is that he made it look pretty easy!
We are pleased to announce that Hans Monenegro has sent Vince Pinch Low in the Grandwall Boulders, Squamish, BC. After sending the regular version on Monday, Hans went back for the low yesterday. Hans is on fire these days!
Mummut is always making an effort to record the history of climbing. Great video featuring Midnight Lighting (v8) featuring Ron Kauk.