“In this light you look like Poseidon” is Bolivias’s first 9a, the second one on the Altiplano on almost 4000m, the fourth one in Latin America.
In 2003 Fred Moix belayed Didier Berthod during the first “pinkpoint” ascent of Greenspit, Europe’s hardest crack. He shot the memorable photos , which went on to be published worldwide. This marked a big step for both Didiers a climber and for Fred as a photographer. 13 years later, Fred has his turn at redpointing this legendary 5.14- crack placing all gear on the lead. This was Fred’s second ever trad route. Despite the fame surrounding the route it still hasn’t seen many ascents.
We are pleased to announce that Matt Keys has completed the rib project in Hope, BC, aptly naming it ‘The Rib (v6)’. Originally unearthed by Tyler Thompson, The rib features a smooth right leaning rib that climbs up a somewhat highball boulder. The boulders in Hope, BC have garnished more attention over the last month and it is not without merit! The boulders are awesome.
We are very excited to announce that Jared Nelson sent Superman (5.14c) yesterday on the Big Show in Cheakamus Canyon, Squamish, BC. This was the last climb Jared needed to do before completing all established lines on The Big Show which is comprised of one 13c, two 13d’s, two 14a’s, two 14b’s, and two 14c’s.
On the first attempt of the day after warming up in the boulders, Jared fell twice on the second move of pulse, only to come down and start again. After a the long journey past the crux of Pulse (5.14a) and Captain America (5.14b), Jared rested for a long time in the alcove before entering the final diagonal of Heat (5.13d), looking as though he just walked through the moves.
Congratulations Jared! What a summer!
As we were just getting ready to promote the 2017 Tour De Frank that takes place every year at Frank Slide, we found out the news that this years event has been cancelled due to extreme fire risk.
For the past month, there has been a Fire Advisory for the Crowsnest Pass Area. Trent Hoover, one of the organizers of the event, recently spoke to the site coordinator for Frank Slide and reported that access to the boulders is still open but the operators do not want any large groups in the area because of the increased risk for a potential human-caused fire. As of such, the organizers have made the decision to cancel the event for this year.
We are very pleased to announce that Alannah Yip sent Pulse (5.14a) in Cheakamus Canyon today! This was the first female ascent of Pulse (5.14a), the first 5.14 in Canada as well as Alannah’s first 5.14.
Special thanks to Aidan Nickel who has gone through the tedious task of gathering all the information he could on the bouldering in and around the Greater Victoria area. The document includes a ton of information including an interactive map, as well as pictures, topos, and access information to each of the areas. Below is the word from Aiden from the start of the guide:
Despite the island not being home to particularly excellent rock, nor an extremely large population, the climbing community, in particular the bouldering scene, has been vibrant and psyched since the mid 90’s. The people in this scene have squeezed lines out of even the smallest and least noteworthy areas in their search for problems. From a historical perspective I have always found it interesting that some of the most prominent developers in early Squamish bouldering were Victorians. These climbers and others have put up quality problems all over small areas surrounding Victoria, and due to the multitude of areas, lack of information, and the rapid growth of moss, these problems are often lost and forgotten.
Luke Zimmerman sending Black Magic (v13) in the early morning of Sept. 12, 2017.
We are very excited to announce that Squamish-local Luke Zimmerman has sent his summer project, Black Magic (v13). Working on the rig most of the summer, Luke finally sent very early this morning, on the heels of sending Darkstar (v12/13) which climbs most of Black Magic, before exiting to the left. Congratulations Luke!
Rumour on the street is that Luke celebrated the send at A & W where he polished off two mama burgers, a teen burger, fries, and onion rings. If that was not enough, the celebration continued at Tall Tree with an ice cream sandwich! Now that is celebrating!
We are very psyched to announce that Jared Nelson completed Captain America (5.14b) yesterday in rather ugly conditions.
If it feels like Jared just sent Pulse (5.14a) this spring, well that is true. Since then Jared has completed Free Will, (5.13c), Revival (5.14b), SupermanBoy (5.14c), Patience (5.14a), and now Captain America (5.14b) all in that order. With Heat (5.13d) and Superman (5.14c) left to go, he may be able to complete the Big Show before the season is out! Wow!
Awesome video featuring visiting climber Nalle Hukkataival.
Well done clip featuring Caroline George and Katie Lambert in Norway.
Climbing in Norway in mid-summer is a reminder that this a special place. With endless daylight and a seemingly never ending tick list of climbs to top out on, Eddie Bauer Guide Caroline George alongside Eddie Bauer Climber Katie Lambert reunite to find joy in the high places, satisfaction in the crisp rock and beauty in the sea and towers that ring Lofoten. This is Sol Tarn.
On Sept 8, 2017, British implant Jacob Cook and Squamish-local Tony McLean made the first free ascent of the East Face of Mt. Slesse.
It took the pair 11 hrs to climb the 1000 meter wall via their new route Welcome to the Wack (5.11+). According to Cook, the route features excellent granite and terrifying run-outs.
This post will be updated as a topo and more information become available.
Another magical day in the forest after a little rain to keep away those hot temperatures. We are pleased to announce that Luke Zimmerman made an ascent of Darkstar (v12/13). The line starts via Black Magic but then exits left on Llamas for Me, Please. Luke has been working up to sending Black Magic and came very close today. Congratulations Luke!
Very sick footage of local climber Ben Harnden on North North Ridge (v14). Some confusion regarding the name, but I believe that the original North Ridge (v14), first established by Gorg Jost exited to the left and Ben completed the line via the right exit of Black Hole.
We do know that on send day, Ben did the problem twice because ‘he put so much time into it and wanted to enjoy it one more time’.
On a hot summer day, Ben twice repeated The North North Ridge completing the Squamish Trifecta of hard lines in boulder, trad and sport.
Development News ‘Oli Ouellette makes FFA of Monoceros (5.12a – 4 Pitches) in North Walls, Stawamus Chief’
We are pleased to announce that in late June 2017, Oli Ouellette made the first free ascent of Monoceros (5.12a – 4 Pitches) in North Walls of the Stawamus Chief. Details below.